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中轴线之味:品一品“舌尖上的非遗”

发布时间:2023-07-12

南起永定门,北至钟鼓楼,这条全长7.8公里的北京中轴线,举世闻名。从“皇城根儿”到市井街区,中轴线上隐藏着诸多老字号招牌的“非遗”美食。寻味中轴线,让我们走起吧!

Stretching between the Yongding Gate in the south of the city and the Drum Tower and Bell Tower in the north, the 7.8-km-long Beijing Central Axis, also known as the Chinese capital’s “backbone,” is of global fame. From the surrounding areas of the Forbidden City to the nearby communities, many time-honored brands whose food are intangible cultural heritage are located along this axis. Let’s get on a gourmet tour of the Central Axis!

说到北京美食,烤鸭绝对当仁不让。全聚德烤鸭作为前门大街上的老字号招牌之一,自清宫传入民间,经历代烤鸭师傅坚守,传承百余年挂炉烤鸭技艺,宰烫、制胚、烤制、片鸭四大工序,30余道操作环节,才能有那一口烤鸭的“油香”味。

When it comes to Beijing cuisine, roast duck is one signature food. Quanjude roast duck, as one of the time-honored brands on the bustling Qianmen Street, was introduced to the public from the Forbidden City during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). Thanks to the persistent practices of generations of roast duck masters, the century-old hanging-style duck roasting techniques have passed on to the present. It includes four major steps of initial treatment, preserving, roasting and slicing, and more than 30 links. Only going through such a sophisticated process can the best greasy feel be created in the roast duck.

吃完烤鸭这道名菜,再来尝尝小吃烧麦。这是乾隆皇帝御赐的招牌,店名叫“都一处”。“都一处烧麦制作技艺”已被列入国家级非遗,每一张烧麦皮都有24褶,代表24节气,缺一不可,成形的烧麦,封口处露馅不干,犹如含苞待放的花朵,堪称一绝。

After enjoying the famous roast duck, let’s try shaomai, a traditional steamed pastry in Beijing. This is the signboard given by China’s Qing Dynasty Emperor Qianlong (1736-1795), and it’s called “Duyichu.” Duyichu’s shaomai production skills has been listed as a national intangible cultural heritage. Every shaomai has 24 wrinkles on it, a compulsory set pattern, symbolizing the 24 solar terms in Chinese culture. The shaped shaomai has fresh fillings out at the seal, resembling a bud ready to bloom, which is quite an awe-inspiring technique.

吃食说到这儿,我们再来聊聊喝的。中国茶作为世界非遗历史悠久,老舍茶馆以中国的文化大家老舍先生命名,从二分钱一碗的大碗茶,发展到四合茶院、宫廷茶宴,再到汇聚京剧、戏曲、木偶戏等文化表演活动于一体的京味文化馆。

Food aside, let’s talk about drinks. Chinese tea has a long history as a world intangible cultural heritage. Lao She Teahouse is named after Lao She, a great Chinese cultural master. It has developed from a street stall offering big bowls of tea each costing only 0.02 yuan to a traditional Beijing compound teahouse offering tea banquet once exclusive in the imperial palace, and then to a Beijing-style cultural center integrating Peking Opera, other opera, puppet show and other cultural performances.

随着时代的前行,中轴线上的非遗美食也在守正中创新。烤鸭变糕点,以糕点形式呈现烤鸭传统吃法,体验“中轴食礼”下午茶时光。传统烧麦从单色烧麦品类延伸出“四季时令烧麦”、“奥运五彩烧麦”等品类,让一款普通的食物变得不普通。

With the advancement of the times, the intangible cultural heritage food along the Central Axis is also innovating while preserving their traditions. The roast duck has made its way into pastry, which presents the traditional eating method of roast duck by cakes, creating an impressive afternoon tea time featuring Central Axis delicacies. Traditional shaomai extends from a single-color delicacy to one with various forms such as showcasing the features of four seasons and the five colors of the Olympic rings, making an ordinary food stand out.

中轴线,从皇家到民间、从古老到现代,正焕发着更多的活力。一道道非遗美食,传承的是“历史味儿”,体现的是“发展味儿”。无论是传统到现代的文化赓续,还是现代向传统的文化反哺,非遗美食在时间的长河里经久不衰,靠的是“文化味儿”。

The Central Axis, covering the Forbidden City and the public communities and lasting till today, is brimming with growing vitality. A series of intangible cultural heritage delicacies offers not only a taste of the past, but also a flavor of development. Whether it’s the cultural continuation remaining unchanged in the past and the present, or it’s the cultural enrichment to the traditions by using modern means, what keeps these intangible cultural heritage delicacies enduring is their cultural value. 

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编导:佟明月
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