石榴籽·同心圆 | 维吾尔族：这样的“艾德莱斯”谁不爱
在新疆维吾尔自治区成立70周年的时光坐标上，
一缕承载着千年文明的丝绸愈发闪耀。
指尖轻触，是流云拂过般的柔软；
目光所及，是艳丽繁花般的图纹，
薄如蝉翼却富于弹性。
这不仅是维吾尔族服饰瑰宝，
更是新疆大地上的文化图腾——艾德莱斯绸。
它在经纬交织间记录着各民族交融共生的温情岁月。
和田、喀什地区是新疆主要蚕桑区，当地丰富的蚕桑资源为艾德莱斯绸的生产提供了充足的原材料保障。
Hotan and Kashgar prefectures are major sericulture areas in Xinjiang, where abundant mulberry resources provide a solid raw material supply for the production of Atlas silk.
“艾德莱斯”意为“扎经染色”，最大的特点是在织造前就已设计好图案，先染线，后织布。
“Atlas” refers to “tie-dyeing,” characterized primarily by designing the pattern before weaving. The threads are dyed first, then woven into fabric.
它的诞生本就刻着“交融”基因。
Its origin inherently embodies a gene of “integration.”
千年前，中原养蚕缫丝技术传入西域，与当地织染技艺结合，经煮沸抽丝、捆扎染色等工序，最终成为独特织物。
Over one thousand years ago, sericulture and silk reeling techniques from the Central Plains were introduced to the Western Regions, where they were combined with local weaving and dyeing methods. Through processes such as boiling and reeling silk, as well as tying and dyeing, a distinctive fabric was developed.
工艺上，西域玉米皮防染与中原“界尺”定位结合，通过捆绑经纱中不需要染色的部分（用玉米皮、薄膜等扎紧），让染色剂无法渗透，形成花纹；西域草木染（槐树花、石榴花、核桃皮）与中原媒染法（加入明矾或绿矾）结合，让色彩更醇厚。
Technologically, the Western Regions' technique of resisting dyeing using corn husks was integrated with the Central Plains' marking methodwith the ungraduated ruler. By binding portions of the warp yarns that did not require dyeing-- using materials like corn husks or thin films-- the dye was prevented from penetrating, creating patterned designs.
The Western Regions' use of plant-based dyes from sophora flowers, pomegranate blossoms, and walnut peels was combined with the Chinese mordant dyeing technique, which involves adding alum or ferrous sulfate, resulting in richer colors.
纹样上，羊角、花卉、苹果、石榴、巴旦木、热瓦甫琴、手鼓等元素，也都生动体现了生活在这片土地上的各民族的多元风采。
The patterns, featuring motifs such as ram's horns, flowers, apples, pomegranates, almonds, rawap, and hand drums, vividly reflect the diverse cultural heritage of the various ethnic groups inhabiting the region.
这缕来自新疆维吾尔族的传统丝绸，正以新姿态走进大众视野。如今，“艾德莱斯”早已超越面料范畴，“艾德莱斯+”出现在了秀场上、文创产品上，走进千家万户，也成为连接各民族共同发展的纽带。各民族的交融，正如艾德莱斯绸上的经纬交织，各守本色，又共绘新图景。
The traditional silk from the Xinjiang Uygur community is reemerging in the public eye with a renewed appeal. Today, Atlas has long surpassed its role as a fabric. The Atlas elements have appeared on fashion runways and cultural creative products, reaching households nationwide and serving as a link promoting shared development among ethnic groups. The integration of various ethnic groups mirrors the warp and weft woven into Atlas silk-- each maintaining its distinct identity while collectively creating a new pattern.
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